Tag: fashion

Vogue Spain, 2017

ANTI Management, the agency that defends all, but ALL, models

BY MARÍA CONTRERAS

JULY 10, 2017

Booker Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha is convinced that there are many things to improve in the fashion industry, and he doesn’t bite his tongue when it comes to listing them

The Brazilian Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha is a veteran in the world of modeling agencies; he has been a booker at Marilyn, Ford, Elite and Trump Models, and since last March he is CEO of his own agency, ANTI Management, with which he has set out to improve the working conditions of his clients. Santos Rocha believes that the treatment of models has worsened alarmingly in recent years, and the origin of the problem is very clear: “When I started in this business the big agencies still belonged to families or individuals: Marilyn was directed by Marilyn, Ford was directed by the Fords, Beatrice had Beatrice… By crossing the doors of each agency you knew what their values were, the type of work they did and, most importantly, you knew who directed the show. But when they began to withdraw, most of the agencies were sold, and now most of our industry is managed by large faceless corporations in a way that would never have been accepted then.” And what exactly has changed? “Before we promoted careers and supervised everything our models did, from clothing lines to movies. That strengthened the agencies, and generated deeper relationships and careers longer. Some models took 2 to 5 years to get an important contract or make a name for themselves, but we never left them aside after the first season. But today models are often treated as if they were disposable dishes, and I totally disagree with that. I think that by returning the business to its roots, but in an updated and fresh way, we will recover some of the allure that this industry had and strengthen it.”

Your agency’s motto, “our models are our customers,” is a good indicator of the code of ethics that will govern ANTI Management. “The trend now is the power booker. Most agencies today care more about the clients of the models than about them. They are willing to do whatever it takes to take advantage of the money, and that is why – or because of their fears, or their ego… – they often make bad decisions on behalf of their models. Every day a supplier lowers their rates a little more, or adds hours of work without paying extra, or removes breakfast from the set; they do what is necessary to save, but what they do not understand, and what the agencies that bow to it do not understand either, is that this short-sighted vision is killing our industry, and not precisely little by little, but with enough speed. In addition, there is a level of pressure on the agents that escapes reason. If the numbers generated by the team do not meet the forecasts, there are consequences within the agency, so these have tripled the number of models they represent and are operating basically with a production chain mentality. But many of my colleagues forget that our original clients are the models; they forget that it is a privilege and an honor to represent any of these girls; they forget that they have placed their hopes, their dreams and their trust in us, and they also forget that they are the ones who pay our salaries, which is a very important lesson that I learned in Marilyn.”

“Anything you can imagine has happened in this industry,”

Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha

Over the years, Gabriel has witnessed abuses and injustices towards models, but prefers not to go into details. “Anything you can imagine has happened in this industry,” he limits himself to saying. His last stage in Trump Model Managament was especially hectic; several media echoed an alleged boycott against the agency in retaliation for Trump’s policies and statements as president, and numerous employees and models – Gabriel among them – left the ship. How much truth is there in what is told? “As they say, I refer to the tests,” he points out. What happened to that agency was truly unfortunate. But the past is there, we have all gone ahead and surely in time we will manage to get something positive out of that time. Although it wasn’t really easy at all.”

Headquartered in New York, ANTI already has more than 70 models – many of them, from Trump Models – including Shirley Mallmann or Milana Keller. The agency will not divide them by categories (that is, there will not be the typical tabs of Man, Woman, New Faces, Legends …) to multiply their possibilities and not limit their potential: “For the moment I call it the Anti-Division, but the name could change. I don’t believe in labels, and I think that no model should have to conform to a ‘table’ or a ‘division.‘” The agency also defends an inclusive philosophy that embraces diversity: “Among our models there are gays, lesbians, trans, blacks, Chinese, Jews or Christians. Our job is to represent the talent we believe in with our best abilities, and that begins by respecting who each of them is individually. If we erase labels, we eliminate stigmas, and we are able to see people for who they really are and, consequently, to do a much better job in promoting them.”

On his personal Instagram account, Santos Rocha defines himself as a “writer, model booker and shit shaker.” What else are you determined to shake? “Everything. Believe me, no one can stop me. I always say that all I have is a huge mouth and no shame. And it’s the truth.” We just checked it.

Link to the article here.

Nylon, 2017

HOW TWO NEW AGENCIES ARE CREATING A SAFE SPACE FOR YOUNG MODELS

Fashion might be all about glamour and beauty, but the world of modeling has a rather ugly side

MARGAUX MEISEL

Modeling is an industry built on perfection, beauty, and the never-ending chase for the next big face. So, naturally, it’s also an industry rife with corruption, mistreatment, and bad practices. Every so often, stories emerge that reveal the ugly underbelly of this supposedly glamorous business. And the details are far from chic.

“I was once shooting a lookbook where the stylist, helping me dress, used this chance to feel my body much more than necessary, and continued to do so throughout the entire shoot,” model Fernanda Ly revealed in March. And in another case, nearly 150 models were locked in a dark stairwell for hours at a time during a casting in February. There was also the time a Danish model was dropped from a show for having a “bloated stomach” and “bloated face” in May. Needless to say, mistreatment in the modeling industry is a tale as old as time. 

Even today, when it’s encouraged to be outspoken on social media about once-taboo topics, it’s difficult for models to expose the abuse they’ve weathered—especially if they want to continue to book profitable jobs. “Models, more than others, censor themselves in fear of losing critical jobs. As a result social media has become their soapbox, but many are still reluctant to voice their own frustrations,” Models.com wrote in an exposé that answered the question, “How Should a Model Be Treated?”

While there isn’t one simple answer to that complex question, there are a number of champions out there who have dedicated their careers to reforming the industry, one job at a time. There’s esteemed casting director James Scully, who uses his position to promote diversity and Sara Ziff, the founder of the Model Alliance, who fights for fair treatment and equal opportunity in the industry.  

Then there are agencies, the companies that models rely on as a point of communication between the fashion brands employing them—they handle money, negotiate contracts, and generally manage the careers of these runway regulars. One would assume that the business-minded agencies would have the best intentions for their clients, but that’s not always the case. Instead, agencies tend to focus on the financial interests of the agency itself.

“As the years passed and I learned more about the business, it became increasingly apparent that the scales were tipped,” explained Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha, a former agent at the erstwhile Trump Model Management who left to start his own firm this spring. 

With years of experience on the management side, Rocha left the plagued agency founded by POTUS (which had become notorious for less than ideal treatment of its models, including illegal immigration practices, blatant financial exploitation, and cramped model apartments that were “like a sweatshop”) to start Anti Management. His intention was to overhaul the treatment of models, across the board, offering them a space where their careers could be fostered and their personalities could be preserved. That included addressing the way bookers treat models and improving the efficacy in which the men and women he represents get paid. 

Just a few months old, Anti Management is already garnering attention for not separating models into boards, the usual practice of dividing models into categories such as curvy, men’s, new faces, and so on. That means bookers at Anti work with all types of models, across all types of jobs, from commercial print to runway shows. Further, Anti doesn’t distinguish trans models from the rest; there’s no label signifying their change in gender, as they simply are who they are. As Rocha puts it, he wants all of his models to be treated equally.

He offered a simple example of how this organizational setup can benefit both his models and the fashion clients. “If Tommy Hilfiger calls in today needing 15 different types of models of all ages and races, they will only need to speak with one booker, and this one booker will offer them the whole set of possibilities.” 

Some of Anti’s biggest faces include two Brazilian top models Shirley Mallmann and Fabiana Saba, plus Madisin Bradley and the famously androgynous Elliott Sailors. The agency has also taken chances on models that don’t tick all the boxes of conventional beauty. Take Bice, for example. At only 5’8″, he’s far shorter than the average male model, but he also rocks an ethereal and otherworldly look, a result of alopecia universalis, an autoimmune disease which has left him entirely bald—including his eyelashes and eyebrows.

“[He] was turned away by every single modeling agency in and out of town, but Bice really showed us all how perseverance and talent stand out no matter how tall you are. Interview, Hero, Iris Covet Book, and Vogue are some of the editorials he’s booked since joining us at Anti,” Rocha boasted.

Rocha also encourages his talent to embrace their interests outside of modeling. Whether that’s honing a DJing skill, like Eric Chong, studying at Pratt Institute, like David Pesin, or chasing a passion for cooking with cannabis, like Fabio Nunes, he wants to make sure that the Anti Management models are a well-rounded bunch who can find fulfillment in all areas of their lives. 

But Anti Management isn’t the only agency making a difference. Across the pond, Linden Staubhas emerged as a mother agency (the firm that exclusively sponsors models and promotes them out to booking agencies) that takes the title of mother to heart. In fact, Tara Davies and Esther Kinnear Derungs have adopted a company-wide policy of empowering women, from their London office.

“In a nutshell, we see our models as human beings, not as a business commodity. We put our models’ welfare in front of our business targets, often investing in them financially and at the same time trying to keep their costs down because we do not feel it is right for a young woman to start her career with thousands of pounds’ worth of debt,” Kinnear Derungs told us. 

To maintain that promise, the models represented by Linden Staub are paid the day after a job is complete, regardless of when the client submits payment—which can often be months later. 

“Linden Staub models are empowered by financial independence. By knowing when they will be paid, they are able to lead more independent lives,” explained Kinnear Derungs. The two co-founders also make sure to educate their models with an accounting demo, teaching them how to navigate the world of payments, fees, and taxes, providing these young professionals with vital fiscal knowledge. 

The agency was started in March 2016 with just four girls; they now represent 11 international models, including Georgie Taylor and Lydia Atchison, and have 75 new faces in development. And though they’re small, the firm is mighty, having landed gigs for their girls at top brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Burberry, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Dolce & Gabbana, and Michael Kors.

And similarly to Anti Management, they understand cultivating a model beyond her runway walk and her social media following. “Above all, we try to preach the importance of downtime, of doing things that feed your soul, not just your Instagram,” Davies said. 

Though there’s still plenty of reform to go, in terms of models being treated right, paid on time, and not discriminated against for their race or gender, at least a few members of the industry are stepping up. And that is one leap toward a healthier fashion industry that is pretty, inside and out. 

Check out the original post here.

Huffington Post, 2015

Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha Spills What its Really Like to be a Model Agent

By Shawn Reinoehl, Contributor

Fashion Photographer With A New Approach To Fashion/Editorial Blogging.

10/20/2015 11:21am EDT 

New York, London, Milan and Paris; what do these cities have in common? They are the epicenter where fashion comes to life on the runways. Designers, models, editors, influencers, all come together to make it happen twice a year for fashion week. One of the key players that sets trends and pushes boundaries in the modeling business is the agent that represents models at top modeling agencies around the world.

Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha is a senior agent at Trump Models and he has graced the fashion industry with his creative eye, sharp mind, and tenacity in the way he envisions what a model should envelop. If that means whether they’re tall, thin, curvy, or has that editorial look that hasn’t been seen before, Gabriel and other agents around the world have an influence on what is in, or out. I had the opportunity to ask Gabriel questions about fashion, modeling, trends, and what this whole process of fashion means to him and everyone else that can’t get enough of fashion.

Shawn Reinoehl What does fashion mean to you?
Gabriel Rocha Fashion is an art form, it is more than making clothes, it’s a way of expressing oneself, telling stories, showing personalities. Creating fashion is not just about putting out a dress on a runway.

SR How did you get involved with modeling agencies? 
GR A girlfriend of mine who was asked to meet with Marilyn Agency to be a model didn’t want to go by herself, so she asked me to tag along. I met the director of the agency and after that meeting we would occasionally run into each other. One day I got a call from her asking if I wanted to join their team; she said she felt my personality would be a good fit for the agency. I was intrigued, so I went for that meeting and 13 years later, I’m still in the business.

SR Of the models you’ve worked with, who are some of your favorites?
GR I have represented many great ones but I have to say some of the most inspiring models are probably Michelle Alves, Maggie Rizer, Julia Nobis, Shirley Mallmann and Caroline Ribeiro. Those girls are real muses to me.

SR Your favorite fashion era and why? 
GR Aesthetically I love the 70’s, there was so much going on at that time, from disco to glam rock and the looks were so elaborate and bold, it was a totally exciting time period for fashion in general. I also love where we are today, because it’s sort of a “best of” generation. We’ve been borrowing the best things from each previous decade and tweaking it to make it a little more modern and I like that. I like that pretty much everything is accepted, it’s all about embracing a look with confidence.

SR Who are your top three designers? 
GR At the moment Dries Van Noten, Givenchy and Celine. Ever, I would include McQueen, when he was still around and also John Galliano, he is an absolute genius!

SR How long have you been in the fashion industry? 
GR Thirteen years, but it feels like nothing!

SR In the fashion world, fresh is a must, what trends have you seen with the way models look?
GR when I started, the trend in beauty was between Brazilian and Russian models, very beautiful and sexy girls. Slowly after that the trend shifted a little bit more towards girls who looked a little bit like birds, meaning, big eyes, pointy nose, little chin, more of a round face, you know… Then it became a little bit more all American and pretty, like, the girl next door, reminding me a little bit of the 90’s when girls were just stunning and appeared more like someone you would want to be friends with. I particularly loved the grunge period in the late 90’s, I think fashion was very exciting at that time.

SR Are there super models today, or was that a product of the 90’s?
GR Yes, there are definitely supermodels today. The industry went through a period when there weren’t any, perhaps Gisele Bundchen was the only one around, for nearly a decade, but slowly they came back. I think at the moment some of the girls who could be compared with the original supermodels are Joan Smalls and Karlie Kloss.

SR Is skinny still in? 
GR Skinny is still in, very much so – but healthy too; skinny and healthy.

SR If a girl wanted to become a model what are some requirements she must meet in order to become one? 
GR 5’9 height, hips below 35 inches, good skin and good genes, self-confidence and patience, lots of patience.

SR What’s next in your career? 
GR I’d like to make bigger contributions to the industry and perhaps guide aspiring models and agents in a broader spectrum, away from the booking table and out in the universe.

SR If you could be on a TV show or reality show which show would it be? 
GR Oh, anything that Nigella Lawson could be involved in, I think she is absolutely fabulous!

SR What inspires you? 
GR Creativity and open-mindedness in others, that always gives me desire to do more and create new things.

SR Top three fashion photographers you adore?
GR I will stick with ones who are alive: Steven Meisel, Daniel Jackson, Lachlan Bailey and Ryan McGinley.

SR Where do you see fashion going in the next few years? 
GR Oh I haven’t a clue!

SR What projects are you working on?
GR At the moment I am working on a project that tells stories from the industry with a fresh perspective, should be out by next year.

SR When are you the busiest at your job? 
GR For me the most stressful times are the ones preceding the fashion season, when we have to make sure everything is organized for what’s about to take place, in line with strategy and brand development. 

SR What’s your favorite season?
GR Autumn, no doubt!

SR Do you see plus models replacing the thin girls on the runways? 
GR No, but I like that they’re more present each day.

You will find the original Huffington Post interview here.

The Legends Interview

legend |ˈlejənd| noun

an extremely famous or notorious person, especially in a particular field.

Picture this: between Pat Cleveland (who’s career started in the 1970’s) and Hannah Ferguson (who started in 2012), there are five decades of legendary careers in the modeling industry. One would think that for some of these women, things would have slowed down, but they don’t ever stop working. Frederique Van der Wal runs the most successful floral business in the world, Carol Alt hosts a daily show on Fox News, Claudia Mason is about to embark on a book tour and Pat Cleveland is also writing a book of her own in between photoshoots and runway shows. Hannah Ferguson, while young in the business, had hardly any days off since she broke the internet in the infamous Carl’s Jr. commercial, alongside Paris Hilton.

The irony is that neither of these women seem to see themselves as legends. “I don’t know what a legend is” says Carol Alt while the makeup artist works on final touches before the shoot. Strangely, Ms. Alt is one of the models for which the term “supermodel” was created to describe. “To me, if the image stays long after the person is gone, that is legendary” she completes.

The aforementioned women may not be “gone”, but their images will forever linger. These careers surpassed the runways and magazine covers, occupying the movie screens, televisions and even theater stages around the world. Additionally, each of them has a hand in some sort of humanitarian work, paying all the good they received forward. Whether they care to admit it or not, they have all created a legacy of their own.

Bright Lights, Big City

The city of lights, romance and pastry, Paris is one of the world’s most effervescent cultural centers. The French capital sizzles and yet remains gentle in a beautiful paradox that allows you to live fast and party hard, while simultaneously inviting you to sit at one of its many immaculate parks to listen to music or read your afternoon away. The beauty of Paris is not in the bustling tourist attractions, but in the hidden corners and intimate settings. True, some of the most notable spots, such as the Louvre or the Trocadero still remain breathtaking, although somewhat impersonal. It was in the peaceful gardens of the Jardin des Plantes that I found my footing. After I realized that privacy was possible, even in the most public of places, I decided I’d take my time, soaking it all in.

No city in Europe makes me feel more comfortable and at home than I do in Paris. I understand this may seem odd, given the unfortunate fame the French have for their unpleasantness. I don’t find that to be true. Yes, they are ‘to the point’ and, yes, they can sometimes be honest to a fault, but I’ve learned over the years that part of what makes them so wonderful, are those exact things. They know everything; they are the best at everything; they have the best taste in everything. So what? No wonder they have some of the best food and wine in the world, not to mention art, literature, film and music. The French really got it all right – if it wasn’t for all the dog poo splattered around the city sidewalks and the occasional strikes, it would be the perfect place.
Whether in the seediness fun of the Pigalle or at the top of the hill at the Sacre Coeur – my favorite church in the world, which says a lot for someone who’s not religiously inclined – there was always an opportunity to stop at a hidden store, buy inconspicuous art and chat with the locals about what could be a great spot for dinner in the area, away from the extreme prices of the known locales.

L’Entrecote remains one of my favorite restaurants within Paris. Introduced to me during my first trip, it’s a French gem and normally my first stop whenever I’m in town. After standing in a long line out in the street (yes, it’s that popular), you’re invited to sit down in a busy room, filled with vibrant chatter and delicious smells. However, no menu is ever presented; for a flat rate, you’re served L’Entrecote’s famous cut of meat with the secret mouth watering sauce, accompanied by fries and a salad. At the end of your meal, you’re given the choice of a dessert and the check. Just like that, in and out, no time is wasted, and it’s a fascinating thing to watch. This restaurant is such a big hit that it currently has three locations in Paris and even one in New York.

If my mood for dinner, however, is for a scene, I will most likely be seen at Cafe Ruc or Ginger. These two restaurants attract the core of the fashion industry. During Fashion Week, it’s an invitation to encounter some of the biggest top models dining alongside their agents and fashion editors from magazines from all around the world. For lunch, another restaurant favorite of mine that never disappoints is L’Avenue. Steps away from the Hotel Plaza Athene and smacked in between stores like Dior, Chanel, Ferragamo, Celine and the headquarters of Givenchy, this is the spot to have lunch in between fashion shows. The tables on the sidewalk are the most sought after and certain ‘fashionistas’ have been known to spend north of four hours there sipping champagne and nibbling on strawberries. For a quick and very traditional French lunch, I adore Le Castiglione, also one of Grace Coddington’s favorites. The overall environment of Le Castiglione is lovely and the food cooked to perfection. Only a few steps away from Place Vendome, the jewelry central of Europe, where one of the most infamous jewelry heists took place a few years ago, thus turning this location into one of the most well guarded on the planet. Also located at this square is the famed Hotel Ritz — where the gliteratti gather and serves as temporary home to everyone from Anna Wintour to Beyonce.

Not all, however, needs to shine to be incredible. The fabulous burger joint, Ferdi, prepares what to me is one of the best burgers in the world. This cozy restaurant is a locally, well-known institution where patrons are hosted (or turned away) by the colorfully temperamental owner, which to me is the entire charm of the place. The Olsen twins, as well as the Delevigne sisters, have been spotted at Ferdi on several occasions and given their stamp of approval. After finishing the burger, it’s always a good idea to make a quick stop at Colette to pick up some of their exciting limited edition items. The store is design-heaven; just the right size and packed with all that matters in the fashion world – here, you can’t go wrong. If your appetite in turn, is for something a little more mainstream do not skip the classic Printemps, Le Bon Marche or Galleries Lafayette, which are the most famous and large scale French department stores. In the afternoon, a visit to the Hotel de Crillon for coffee proves to be a wise and regal choice. If that’s not appealing, head to the Madeleine square and pick up some delicious tea at the iconic teahouse, Mariage Freres – my personal favorite is the Marco Polo blend.

Shopping may not be your focus (if you’re anything like me), and, in that case, my top suggestion is the museum of the Orangeries at the edge of the Tuilleries Garden. More intimate than some of its counterparts, this museum holds masterpieces like Monet’s Waterlilies among many other impressionists and post-impressionists masters like Cezanne, Matisse, Modigliani, Sisley and Renoir. In case there’s time (and patience) for the mainstream, do not skip the Dorsay and the Pompidou. A very important addition to Paris’ cultural portfolio is the incredible Louis Vuitton Foundation. Designed by Frank Gehry, this new icon of modern architecture and the arts sits in the Bois de Boulogne, known for its mansions and leafy streets. It’s in this very neighborhood that the musician Lenny Kravitz lives and is known to host the occasional intimate party in which the pantheon of the fashion, music and film industry gather.

While in the subject of parties, the Paris nightlife is not to be missed, some of the most exciting times I’ve had at night were there. It was at the club L’Arc that for several years the designer Riccardo Tisci hosted names like Liv Tyler, Gisele Bundchen and Mariacarla Boscono at parties for Givenchy. The most recent and exciting club to open its doors was David Lynch’s Club Silencio. Hidden deep underground, Club Silencio has a variety of rooms and hallways, while also playing host to the an exciting group of characters in the most extreme outfits seen anywhere.

While in Paris, a wild night is not always a requirement for a good time, as can be experienced at the ever-classic Hotel Costes, where a toast to a glass of champagne is mandatory. For a cooler, and more relaxed environment, my all time favorite evening appointment is at the restaurant Derriere, which is fashioned as a house. You may sit for dinner at a bedroom or in a living room, you may even end up in the dining room! If all else fails, you can hang out at the bar or in the patio and play some ping-pong with the iconic and irreverent fashion editor Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, a fan of this spot who is always up for a good time and some laughter.

Of the more traditional touristic spots, I try to never skip visits to the Notre Dame cathedral during mass hours; the smell of incense and the echoing of the words in french are ever inspiring. The Luxembourg Garden always takes my breath away and just before I head back to the hotel to change for the evening, a quick drink or a cup of coffee at Cafe de Flore is essential. Before you leave Paris, whether you go to their cafe at Champs Elysees or to a kiosk at the airport, don’t forget to pick up a box of macaroons from Laduree to gift to some of your favorite people back home. These colorful delicacies are a French institution.

Allow yourself to be immersed in the local culture, stroll through the bridges and the streets observing every detail and every sign. Look for the markings on buildings that might show you the former homes of luminaries like Proust, Balzac or Victor Hugo. Take all of its essence and history in and maybe then you will fall in love just as much as I did. In the classic words of Cole Porter; “I love Paris, every moment of the year”.

Column featured in ONNE MAGAZINE – May 2015

Temporary Rooms

I observe with the human lens. I watch them from the dimly lit corner of a room. They parade around with importance, tidying it all up for the honorable guests. They believe this is important. They believe this matters. I observe as the mechanical lenses line up at the edge of the room, always ecstatic and a bit hectic. They take position, a square each. A square, denoted by the neon tape that feels nothing, that says nothing, that breathes nothing. This tape somehow, the unliving tape, holds more power than some of the living things.

I observe in silence, as the lights briefly dim up bringing to center stage an army of long-limbed tall exquisite creatures. They walk in poetic march, built to inspire, built to promote, built for desire. 

I track the movement of guests as the doors bust open. I track them as they observe their ticket, longing for better seating. I observe as the better-seated glance at other better-seated, in awe and admiration, in anger and envy. I glance as they smile and hug and laugh and throw their hair back. They never stop. This is the cafeteria of high school and everyone has their place. Except for me, I am displaced.

I look, I point my humanity, I shoot. Heavenly creatures reappear on the suddenly bright room. I record moments, I share them with the world, I document it, in the way I’m told. Told by my lenses, the human lenses, creating unique perspectives, developing plots, but never deciding on an end. This story has no end, but the room does.

This room has an end, the room has a time. The room will live in glory, every once in a while. The room will be light and dark, the room will be structure and de-structure. The room will come, the room will go, but I’ll stay. I’ll stay. I’ll stay.

Model by Day, Rocker by Night

SAINT LAURENT MODEL BY DAY, SUNFLOWER BEAN BAND MEMBER BY NIGHT, MODEL/MUSICIAN JULIA CUMMING IS ONE TO WATCH.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HEDI SLIMANE DURING THE FITTING IN SEPTEMBER 2014 IN PARIS

INTERVIEW BY GABRIEL RUAS SANTOS-ROCHA

Despite having just graduated from high school, model Julia Cumming already has two seasons as a Saint Laurent exclusive under her belt. As if that wasn’t already a success story on its own, her Brooklyn-based band, Sunflower Bean, is a beacon of hope for old-fashioned rock-’n’-roll. Music has always come naturally to Cumming (her parents met in a band and her father taught her how to play bass), which is likely why Hedi Slimane was prompted to tear her away from the stages of Brooklyn to walk in his Paris runway shows. “It has been pretty amazing working with Saint Laurent,” Julia reported. “Hedi Slimane’s interest in supporting musicians who are starting out is really cool, and brings a different kind of genuine energy into the world of fashion.”

We talked with Cumming about rock in the digital era, her perceptive views regarding the state of the music industry—and why she might like to travel back in time to the mid ‘70s.

What’s your band’s creative process like? Do you start writing new songs while you’re touring or is there a special time for that?

“For me and Nick and Jacob, playing is our favorite thing in the world to do. So we play together every day—rehearsing and writing when we find parts we want to expand on. Nick usually brings in some riffs and we all work with them, turning it into a collaborative thing.”

The internet has been a great vehicle for your music. Do you intend to move into more traditional formats in the future? Shall we expect an “album”? Maybe even Vinyl?
“The Internet is a gift and a curse (I could talk for years about that), but there is something really special about a physical release. We intend to release our first EP in the beginning 2015, hopefully on vinyl.”

As a young artist in the music scene, how do you view the industry today?
“The music industry has changed so much in the age of online piracy, and I think it’s trying to figure out how to survive in a world where it’s almost impossible to profit off of record sales. It just means that if you’re trying to be a musician now. you really have to do it for the love of it, because the days of huge advances and tour buses are just gone. But everything moves in cycles, and you have to be thankful and excited for the moment you’re in. As long as I’m surviving and making art that I’m excited about, it’s all good.”

Did you have an idea of what the music industry would be like—how was your perception different from the reality of the job?
“Everything seems more glamorous than it is. The music industry is a business, and a business is a business is a business!”

The video clip for “2013” was shot entirely with iPhones—we’re interested in the concept!
“My friend Kyle Hiedacavage is a totally amazing artist who I’ve always admired, and we basically sent him the song and he came back to us with the concept for the video. He wanted to shoot it all on iPhone cameras, which was perfect because we had no budget. I bought a fog machine for 100 bucks, and we just went for it. I think Kyle’s interpretation was spot on. It captures the moment, the year, how we were feeling at the time, all while kind of speculating about the future.”

The thought behind “2013”, of science expanding life and changing things at a fast pace, is a bit daunting. Would you want to be able to extend your life to be 1,000 years old?
“I don’t think I would want to extend my life to be 1,ooo years old. I guess it depends on what the quality of life would be like. It’s also nice that you have this kind of short moment where you are alive, you know? It forces you to make the most of it, and to take chances.”

One of our favorite Sunflower Bean tracks is, “I want you to give me enough time.” We’re curious to know what it’s about!
“This song means something different to me than it does to my bandmates. I feel like it’s talking about audience members in Brooklyn that go to shows and make up their minds really quickly about bands without really listening long enough to form opinions.”

 Does music influence your sense of style, fashion-wise? What is the connection between the two, in your opinion?
“I’ve always loved glam rock… Acts like Gary Glitter and T-Rex have been my favorite since I was a little kid. I used to have a tape with Alice Cooper music videos that I watched over and over again until it broke. So those images are burned into my brain and have affected my whole life—my style included. I love going a little overboard and trying to find where elegance and over-the-top meet, especially on stage. I feel centered when I’m wearing an outfit that I love and one that represents myself.”

Is there a period in fashion that you’re more interested in?
“I don’t know if I could name just one period, but I obviously love the early-mid seventies. I used to say that if I could exist at any time I would like to be 16 in 1973, living in London.”

How did modeling come about for you? Had it always been a desire of yours?
“I think modeling is a kind of performance and a form of expression in a way. When I became interested in clothes as an early teenager, fashion imagery started to mean more to me. But I never really thought it was something I could end up actually being involved in.”

Can you compare the experiences of being on stage performing with your band versus walking in runway shows?
“Playing in a band on stage and walking in a runway show are very different. Fashion and music are definitely intertwined, but an art form like rock-’n’-roll offers total freedom, asking you to dress up the parts of you that are ugly and weird and you put them on display.”

Judging by the different avenues that you’ve pursued throughout the years, it seems that you’re not afraid to try new things.
“I love to try new things. You only get one chance in this world (at least until we find out if we can live to be 1,000). I just really enjoy making art and want to try to explore it all the ways I can.”

Interview originally published on CR Fashionbook on Nov, 17th 2014 

Top Agent

The visionary Eileen Ford created in 1947 the concept of the modeling agency as we know it today. Tough and workaholic, the businesswoman, who passed away this past July at the age of 92, had only one regret: not signing Grace Kelly to her agency

By Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha

The designer Yves Saint Laurent once said that “a good model can advance fashion ten years”, but a good modeling agency and managing skills have proven to advance an entire industry. Eileen Ford, who passed away, last July at the height of well lived 92 years was the sole creator of the modern day modeling agency. Mrs. Ford’s modeling agency went on to become the biggest modeling agency in the world, representing a roster populated by some of the most famous and recognizable women in the world. Cheryl Tiegs, Christy Turlington, Jerry Hall, Verushka, Naomi Campbell, Twiggy and Christie Brinkley were only a few in that lucky list.

It all began when Eileen was Pregnant and unable to find someone who would hire her. Mrs. Ford began assisting some of her friends who were models in the mid-40’s as their secretary. Eileen organized their schedules, negotiated jobs, chased after payments and by word of mouth became an agency, at a time when modeling agencies weren’t really established. Modeling wasn’t viewed as a serious profession and Eileen Ford helped evolve modeling from a mostly part-time, poorly paid hobby into one of the world’s most glamorous occupations, turning girls next door into multimillionaire celebrity supermodels. When Eileen’s husband, Jerry Ford, returned from war and resume his studies for business at Columbia University he found great potential in what his wife was doing. Jerry cemented the business and took care of the business while Eileen managed and scouted the girls. They were a perfect fit and became an instant hit.

In their first year, the Ford’s accumulated over 250 thousand dollars and by 1966 Forbes reported they were making an average of 100 thousand dollars per week, becoming the most successful agency in the business. That did not happen by chance. Ford had introduced the voucher system, which would guarantee models their earnings even if the client hadn’t yet paid the agency. Models at that time were paid by the hour, at very low fees. Eileen argued that models should earn their paychecks per day, type of work and according to the extent their images were exploited by the clients. This new practice was the page turner, influencing the way advertising works and remains today the lifeline of the business.

The typical Ford model was tall, thin and predominantly blond, with wide-set eyes, beautiful eyebrows and long neck. Very rarely her girls were shorter than 5’7 a cut-off height which luckily included the gap-toothed Lauren Hutton. Ms. Hutton became the highest paid model in the 70’s and alongside Evelyn Kuhn, one of the first two Revlon contract models. In a recent interview with Eileen, she corrected me: “That was not the first contract”! She was firm, and sharp, referring to Yardley’s of London. That was the first ever exclusive contract, designed by Eileen and Jerry so that a model, in this case the iconic Jean Shrimpton, would exclusively represent and endorse a specific brand, securing higher fees and better exposure.

Beauty however, was not everything. Ford demanded the highest level of professionalism from her models, putting them on strict diets and firing those with a taste for partying. Eileen famously used to say “Models are a business, and they have to treat themselves as a business.” Mrs. Ford took models in to live with her and her family, in her home and was adamant about having all the girls sit with the family at the dining table. Models were required to do chores around the house and go to bed at specific times in order to learn about professionalism and respect. “It was my first experience with a dishwasher” Monique adds, “I had no idea how much soap to use, it ended up in disaster, the foam reached all the way to the dining room” she completes with giggles. Anne Anka, then known Anne de Zogheb, recalls how disapproving Eileen was of her relationship with the singer Paul Anka, who she was married with for 38 years. “She thought, ‘Show business, that’s trouble’, but I think she eventually came around.”

Eileen’s hospitality was the first sign of model housing, now largely established for every agency across the world. At the time however, it was a way for her to keep a closer watch at her girls and make sure they were behaving according to good moral standards and staying away from harms way. Supermodel Renee Simonsen recalls “They took me in and made me a part of their family, and I know that the protection of Eileen saved me a lot of [bad] experiences in the modeling business, she was a tough lady with high moral standards, but she had a big heart”.

Ford reigned the industry alone until the late seventies, when the ‘model wars’ ensued with the insurgence of John Casablanca’s Elite and Wilhelmina Models. These were some of the agencies that came on strong, attacking and luring away some of Ford’s top talents. Eileen would not stand and let her business be taken from her. To her defectors, Mrs. Ford would send copies of the bible with passages about Judas highlighted in red.

It was again, time to innovate. She opened offices across the globe, from Europe to Brazil and soon enough established the first worldwide model search. The ‘Ford Supermodel of the World’, became the largest scouting network and modeling competition, making Ford the biggest agency on the planet.

With that, the supermodel factor was born and many successful models owe their careers to this model search. Victoria’s Secret Angels Adriana Lima and Chanel Iman as well as the actress Malin Ackerman and top models Elsa Benitez and Liliane Ferrarezi are probably the most recognizable names from that group. This vast scouting network helped Ford to branch out and establish a more global look.

Mrs. Ford might have been tough as nails, as some will say, but all who worked for her share their memories with fondness. “They were so nice and decent, like a big family; we shared our good times and also went through difficult times together” explains Patty Sicular, who worked for the Fords as an agent for over three decades and currently runs the Legends board at Trump Models, current agency to most of those iconic Ford models who left with Patty after Eileen departed the business for retirement in 1995. “If you worked with Eileen and Jerry you were on your toes, and as hard as we worked, Eileen and Jerry always worked harder, they were in the office when we arrived and still there when we left.” Concludes Mrs. Sicular. “Eileen wielded her power towards the electrician that came in to repair a light switch to the CEO of General Motors” recalls Ms. Beverly Johnson, “I had never seen a woman with that much power and it was intoxicating to my young mind. Eileen is responsible for shaping me into the celebrated fashion model and savvy business woman I am today.” Concludes Ms. Johnson, the first African American model to appear on the cover of American Vogue, in 1974, and today owner of a hair care line.

Ms. Johnson’s first interview with Eileen did not go well. “’Too fat’, those were the two first words Mrs. Ford said to me.” But Ms. Johnson was determined to join the most powerful modeling agency of the time and came back two weeks later, this time she was in. Eileen however didn’t always made the right choices. Among names that were rejected throughout the years, Marisa Berenson and Grace Kelly stand out – she admitted publicly later that not signing the future Princess of Monaco was her biggest professional failure.

This article appeared originally in Vogue Brazil, September 2014

Pioneering an Industry

Many things have been said about modeling agencies over the years, but what most people don’t know is that it took one woman to create an entire industry. Eileen Ford, who passed away last July at the height of well lived 92 years, created along with her husband, the late Jerry Ford, the modern day modeling agency. Mrs. Ford’s modeling agency went on to become the biggest modeling agency in the world, representing a roster populated by some of the most famous and recognizable women in the world. Cheryl Tiegs, Christy Turlington, Kristen McMenamy, Jerry Hall, Verushka, Naomi Campbell, Twiggy and Christie Brinkley were only a few in that lucky list. Many of Eileen’s creations, whether they were models, beauty standards or forms of conducting business, remain in practice today. “Eileen Ford always made me think of the Queen of England… The fashion business was her Royal Court.” Shares Veronica Webb, one of Ford’s most successful models; who adds “She was a great businesswoman who created a dynasty.”

And the dynasty commenced when Eileen was Pregnant and unable to find employmemt. Mrs. Ford began assisting some of her friends who were models in the mid-40’s as their secretary. Eileen organized their schedules, negotiated jobs, chased after payments and by word of mouth became an agency, at a time when modeling agencies weren’t really established. “There were model agencies, but one of the owners would go to jail, and I thought a different kind of agency was needed – one you could trust” She told an interviewer in 1988. In the 40’s modeling wasn’t viewed as a serious profession and Eileen Ford helped evolve modeling from a mostly part-time, poorly paid hobby into one of the world’s most glamorous occupations, turning girls-next-door into celebrity supermodels. When Eileen’s husband, Jerry Ford, returned from war and resume his studies for business at Columbia University he found great potential in what his wife was doing. Jerry formalized the agency and took care of the business while Eileen managed and scouted the girls.

By 1966 Forbes reported they were making an average of 100 thousand dollars per week, becoming the most successful agency in the business. Ford introduced the voucher system, which would guarantee models their earnings even if the client hadn’t yet paid the agency. Girls were getting paid within sixty days after their jobs now, when before, they would not see their money until sometimes a year later, if they were lucky.

At that time girls were paid by the hour, at very low fees. Eileen argued that models should earn their paychecks per day, type of work and according to the extent their images were exploited by the clients. This new practice was the page turner, influencing the way advertising works and remains today the lifeline of the business.

Eileen Ford had an eye for what the industry clamored for. Ford Model Sheila Finn explains “When I walked in the [Ford] office for the first time, Eileen told me that in six months I would make enough money to pay for a Jaguar in cash”. And Mrs. Ford was right, as Ms. Finn went to become one of the most successful models in the 60’s. Eileen had the uncanny ability to see beyond the pretty girl who stood in front her and envision a star, it was her part to turn the plain girl into that phenomenon she envisioned. And she always did. She defined what the standards of beauty should be like based on what she believed to be the best form for a model. The typical Ford model was tall, thin and predominantly blond, with wide-set eyes, beautiful eyebrows and long neck. Evelyn Kuhn, one of the first two exclusive Revlon contract models, alongside Lauren Hutton is proof of that vision. “This contract changed and educated the whole industry” claims Ms. Kuhn. However, Revlon was not the first contract ever created; that was Yardley’s of London, created so that a model could exclusively represent and endorse a specific brand, securing higher fees and better exposure. Those contracts, created by the Fords, became and remain the most sought after deals in the industry by any model. The Revlon’s of today can be found in established brands such as Estee Lauder, Lancome, L’Oreal and most famously, the lingerie behemoth Victoria’s Secret. If you are a model and have a contract, you know you made it.

Eileen Ford demanded the highest level of professionalism from her models, putting them on strict diets and firing those with a taste for partying. Mrs. Ford took models in to live with her and her family at her home and was adamant about having all the girls sit with the family at the dining table. Models were required to do chores around the house and go to bed at specific times in order to learn about professionalism and respect. “It was my first experience with a dishwasher” Monique Chevallier explains, “I had no idea how much soap to use, it ended up in disaster, the foam reached all the way to the dining room” she completes with giggles.

Eileen’s hospitality was the first sign of model housing, now largely established for every agency across the world. At the time however, it was a way for her to keep a closer watch at her girls and make sure they were behaving according to good moral standards and staying away from harms way. Supermodel Renee Simonsen recalls “They took me in and made me a part of their family, and I know that the protection of Eileen saved me a lot of [bad] experiences in the modeling business, she was a tough lady with high moral standards, but she had a big heart”.

For several decades Eileen Ford represented the world’s most prominent models and raised the profile of the business, which also became a recruiting ground for Hollywood. Since the 50’s with Suzy Parker all the way through the 90’s, Ford launched the careers of some of the most successful actresses of today. Kim Basinger, Rene Russo, Brooke Shields, Sharon Stone and Ali MacGraw are some of the most successful cases, in which high profile modeling careers leveraged an even greater acting career.

Ford reigned the industry alone until the late seventies, when the ‘model wars’ ensued with the insurgence of John Casablanca’s Elite and Wilhelmina Models. These were some of the agencies that came on strong, attacking and luring away some of Ford’s top talents. Eileen would not stand and let her business be taken from her. It was again, time to innovate. She opened offices across the globe, from Europe to Brazil and soon enough established the first worldwide model search. The ‘Ford Supermodel of the World’, became the largest scouting network and modeling competition, making Ford the biggest agency on the planet.

With that, the supermodel factor was born and many successful models owe their careers to this model search. Victoria’s Secret Angels Adriana Lima and Chanel Iman as well as the actress Malin Ackerman are probably the most recognizable names from that group. This vast scouting network helped Ford to branch out and establish a more global look. Before that time there were only a shy few models that stood out, including Naomi Sims, Dalma Callado and Beverly Johnson, who became the first African American on the cover of Vogue. Ms. Johnson used to spend most of her time in between castings at the Ford office, observing everything. “I had never seen a woman with that much power and it was intoxicating to my young mind. Eileen is responsible for shaping me into the celebrated fashion model and savy business woman I am today” Ms. Johnson explains.

All who worked for Eileen share their memories with fondness. “They were so nice and decent, like a big family; we shared our good times and also went through difficult times together” explains Patty Sicular, who worked for the Fords as an agent for over three decades and currently runs the Legends board at Trump Models, current agency to most of those iconic Ford models who left with Patty after Eileen departed the business for retirement in 1995. “If you worked with Eileen and Jerry you were on your toes, and as hard as we worked, Eileen and Jerry always worked harder, they were in the office when we arrived and still there when we left.” Concludes Mrs. Sicular.

“They always say, ‘How did you make it as a woman?’” Eileen shared in an interview to the newspaper Women’s Wear Daily in 2010. “I never had any trouble doing anything as a woman. I did it because I had to, and it worked.”

Originally published in Harper’s Bazaar Thailand, September 2014

The Cultural Omnivore, 2014

IN CONVERSATION WITH MODEL MANAGER GABRIEL RUAS SANTOS ROCHA

A journalist by trade, Gabriel Santos-Rocha’s foray into the world of fashion was fortuitous. From his hometown in Brazil to New York City, Gabriel’s path to being a model manager at Trump Model Management was long but incredibly rewarding. I caught up with him as he talked about his journey, what it takes to make it as a model and his continued passion for writing.

You studied journalism in your hometown of Porte Alegre, Brazil. How did you transition into scouting models for Marilyn?

That’s actually a funny story. One of my best girl friends was approached by Simone Lopes, who was a director at Marilyn in Brazil when we were out one night at a Madonna themed party. My friend asked me to come with her to the appointment. I knew nothing about the modeling industry. I was really into movies and music at that time, so I came, not thinking anything of it. A couple of weeks later my friend called me to say that Simone had asked her for my number, which we both thought was strange. It turned out that Simone had seen me around at parties and social functions and decided, for whatever reason, that I could be a good scout for them. So, I went in and realized that Marilyn was a fabulous opportunity and Simone and Zeca de Abreu, their President at the time in Sao Paulo, were unbelievably great people. We had a great time working together, they taught me so much, and still do. My girl-friend though, you might wonder, decided modeling wasn’t for her and is now a successful lawyer. She just visited me in New York last week.

After a successful run at Marilyn your talents caught the attention of Ford Models which eventually led to your position as Model Manager at Trump. Tell us about that journey.

You know, moving from Marilyn to Ford was one of the hardest things I ever did. I really felt like a part of a family at Marilyn, but making that move also meant growing up and taking actions toward building a career. At Ford I was given freedom to build something really cool with a very talented group of individuals, some of which ended up at other New York agencies like me and remain close friends and others have become very successful artists, like Andre Azevedo, etc. After a long run in Brazil, I owned my own company and was very successful in what I did there and that reflected a lot in my relationships in New York and Paris particularly, so it was only natural for me to make that move. I always wanted to live in New York, so I came here, and I had three very good offers, but the one I really wanted, which was Elite, was taking forever to get back to me. I went through a lot of my savings because I wanted to wait for them and had to pay the bills and I am glad I did. Elite was a phenomenal experience; I was able to work with some of the top agents in my field and learn many important lessons. Trump is an established company with a very experienced team of agents and somehow manages to maintain a family feel to it, which I love. We work hard here to build and nourish long-term careers and we are very selective with who we represent because we are smaller and we like it that way; we love that the girls walk in and feel like this can be an extension of their home.

What does a typical day look like for you?

There are many phone and email conversations and negotiations all day long. A typical day at the office is not nearly as exciting as one would imagine. We have a lot of interaction with the models who are constantly in and out of the office. Sometimes we go to their photo shoots. Many times we take clients or models out for lunches and dinners. If we’re lucky we get to go to a fun industry event after work every now and then, but trust me, we have a desk job like most people, it only involves a much more animated crowd with music playing in the background. And snacks, lots of snacks.

Modeling requires a certain physicality but beyond that what makes a great model?

A great model has to have a great personality, there’s no way around it. Some of the most successful models in the world are the ones who are playful, who understand fashion, art, etc. The girls who understand that they are a part of the creative process and make the best of their ability to collaborate in that process are the ones who succeed.

Tell us about the process of scouting a model to developing them to launching them.

Generally the scouting is all done by a specific team of people, in our case at Trump, Duane Gazi spearheads that team. Once he finds talent that he believes in and understands would be a great addition to our roster there is a process of development in which we work with the assets the girl already has from physicality to personality, to create a career plan and a path for each girl individually. Everyone is different and careers evolve according to each individual’s journey, that’s the fun part of the process. Sometimes girls need assistance in putting together their wardrobe, need a change in haircut or need English lessons, etc. Many times they don’t and it’s only a matter of tweaking their personal style to meet what the market is asking for at that particular moment. The team works together diligently to make sure that it all comes together for the time when the girl is put in front of the client; sometimes one chance is all they get.

How do you feel about criticism leveled at the fashion industry that there’s a lack of diversity?

I believe there could be more diversity, but I don’t believe that is only for the fashion industry, it happens across the board in the entertainment industry. Look at what just happened recently at Saturday Night Live. Yes, there needs to be more diversity in the fashion industry, but let’s not be mistaken, all ethnicities are represented and hopefully that won’t diminish and only grow; our fashion campaigns, runways and editorials should reflect the world we live in.

What advice would you offer someone thinking of embarking on a modeling career?

I would advise them to be patient and to not give up easily. I’ve seen some of the biggest careers happen after years of struggle and rejection; it happens when the time is right. Oh, and always listen to your agents, of course!

​The Internet has contributed to the democratization of fashion and helped demystify the industry.  Do you feel this has helped or hindered fashion?

It has made fashion more accessible to the masses and it has helped build bigger stars faster with the use of social media, but it has also played a negative role. Printed material is becoming extinct, and with that those types of rates and usages. The industry hasn’t evolved quickly enough to keep up with the velocity of the Internet unfortunately and it’s a fight we have to pick daily in every agency. We understand the value behind the work that is shot for the Internet and it has been a struggle to convey that message to clients. That’s how models make a living, from their image. Internet used to be an afterthought years ago and today is a major part of our business.

What are your short-term and long-term plans?

God, what does that even mean? My short-term plans are getting girls ready for the next season. My long-term plans include a home on a beach somewhere and feet in the sand, but I don’t think I will ever be able to stop working, my mind is restless and needs a good outlet.

What would people be surprised to learn about you?

Probably that one of my biggest passions in life is to write and that I love movies more than I love fashion (sorry!).

Follow him at @GabrielRSRocha and on Instagram

You can read the original post here.

Art is Sacred

 

 

Interview by: Gabriel Ruas Santos-Rocha

As the Tunisian youth rebelled against the system to fight for their
rights and reclaim their country, one of their most beautiful and
recognizable young faces was about to step into a public whirlwind of
her own. Kenza Fourati would become the first Arab model to ever be
featured in the best selling Sport’s Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. The
significance was immediately established by the magazine, which added a
political quote to Kenza’s introductory page. The response from the
media around the world, and especially from her own country, was
immediate. In the process, Kenza was to become one of the faces of that
young revolution.
Already an active participant in her country’s political struggles,
Kenza now had enough influence with the media to spread the word and
make more room for Tunisian issues across the planet. Very bold and
outspoken, the model was never discouraged by her critics, who often
created negative facebook groups or used Internet forums that spoke out
against her and her message. Kenza’s goal was clear – the model was
going to use her success and public persona to benefit her country and
raise awareness to what it has to offer the world, and to bring
attention to the arts and fashion.
While working relentlessly on putting together her fashion line
called By Kenz, (which will be launched in Tunisia during Tunis Fashion
Week in 2013) the model discovered other ways to connect the dots and
kill two birds with one stone. With a degree in French literature from
Sorbonne as well as lengthy studies in filmmaking, Kenza has a lot more
to share with the world than just her looks.
Gabriel Ruas Santos-Rocha: What lead you to the idea of bringing Tunisian artists to America?
Kenza Fourati: Pride probably. No one ever talks about my tiny country.
Yet it is shaking the face of the world. And I’m not talking only about
the Arab spring. When I walked around the Occupy Wall Street movements
I noticed several slogans inspired by the Tunisian uprising. After
revoking censorship, when the word became suddenly free, creativity
erupted. New York is the conjuncture for artists. I have the duty to
help building the bridge and exposing both of my worlds.
How do you expect to start bridging the gap between the East and the West?
The strongest weapon ever created is the Internet. There is no real
geography anymore, just cultures to share. So I decided to launch a
fashion blog this month that will also promote art and culture here and
there.
How do you think Tunisia can benefit from the work you’re doing?
Tunisia is at an edge, it’s sculpting its destiny, its history; with the
fundamentalists trying to establish dogmas everywhere. I want to expose
people to new cultures, photography, etc.
Who are some of the artists who inspired you to start this work?
There are so many, but recently I met this young Graffiti artist called
MeenOne, who is truly fascinating. First by the way he looks; he has
dreadlocks. In Tunisia it is really rare to allow yourself to look
“marginal”. People aren’t used to it and you are confronted constantly
with harsh comments. Authorities will arrest you for questioning and so
on. The irony is that it used to be people with long beards who looked
suspicious. Then there is also the fact that he (MeenOne) grew up in a
poor region of the country ruled by the extremists. Actually, his
brother is a Salafist (Jihadist movement). MeenOne used to tag all over
the country wearing a mask and after the revolution he showed his face,
then he showed his work in an exhibit last June. The exhibit was
considered an insult to the sacred. Some fundamentalists called for his
death and it was his Salafist brother and the neighborhood he grew up in
that ended up protecting him. I didn’t know him personally at that
time, but I was stunned by what happened. For me, freedom is sacred
above everything, and so is art. So, I started looking for an artist to
work on an “Art is Sacred” theme for my website and my clothing line and
came across MeenOne, and I found him to be extremely talented. I had no
idea he was involved in the exhibit scandal at the time. I had already
become obsessed with Graffiti when I went to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil
and discovered Pamela Castro’s work.
And how will you bring that work over to the west?
First through my online platform, and later on I hope to bring it to
another level and allow some awesome art to be physically shown here.
How involved were you during the Tunisian revolution?
When the turmoil intensified I asked my family for their permission to
start publishing articles and videos connected to the subject and they
allowed me to do it. They really are the brave ones because the danger
was really for them. I got even more involved when my friend, who is an
activist, got arrested and disappeared. His wife reached out to me and
it was right at the beginning, on January 6th, 2011. I decided to stop
everything that I was doing and only focus on the history that was being
made in my country.
What about the revolution made you happy?
I felt infinitely proud. But I felt a kind of pride I had never felt
before. Pride is a very individualist feeling, but back then it was a
completely selfless collectively shared feeling of pride. I am quite
moved and amazed by it. This revolution belongs to all of us. We are the
revolution.
Were you ever afraid of any negative religious or political backlash due to your participation in these movements?
At the time, yes I was afraid of the political backlash my family could
suffer. There was no question of religion at the time, but that problem
came later and is actually very current today.
What do you still expect to see happening for your country?
Democracy is still unfolding. We are navigating through what is accepted
and what is not, and having fundamentalists in power doesn’t help.
Do you feel that being a model was or still could be a problem for you in your country?
Yes, it sure is now, but it never used to be. I am extremely
controversial in the country as its been getting more and more
conservative.
Is there anything you think you would do differently in your career?
Last year I shot a cover for a magazine wearing a bikini and my body was
covered by a Victor Hugo poem. I loved the idea and the poem preaching
love and tolerance, but the magazine edited it in an aggressively
provocative way and it delivered the wrong message. So yes, that would
be the only thing I would do differently. I was too naive back then.
How about your clothing line? What are the links with Tunisia there?
First of all I am manufacturing my entire collection locally. People may
not know that, but many of the great fashion houses like Giorgio Armani
and Zadig & Voltaire make their products in Tunisia. So I will be
using those same factories. The quality of my product is very important
and my main concern. I will also be launching my first collection during
Tunis Fashion Week in April of 2013.
Originally published on VAGA magazine.

Illustrated Legacy

Great voyeur of the creative effervescence of fashion in the 20th century, the illustrator Antonio Lopez now has a posthumous book and exhibition which displays his trajectory and puts him back at the top of the fashion pyramid.

Written by Gabriel Ruas Santos Rocha

There is no doubt that there are many important and talented fashion illustrators throughout the history of art. Unfortunately, many of them forgotten with time. The Puerto-Rican Antonio Lopez is one of them. Left in the shadows for years, the time has arrived for his name to be brought back to the limelight. The homage is made by the publisher Rizzoli, which releases this month “Antonio – Fashion, Art, Sex & Disco” and invites us, by way of the book, to embark the world of fantasy and glamour of the greatest voyeur of the creative bacchanal that took place between the 1960’s and 1980’s.

In his drawings and photographs, seductive creatures and brilliant minds which walked the fashion world: from the designer Roy Halston and the pope of Pop Art Andy Warhol, to the top model Pat Cleveland. All of them, at some point hit by the innovative look of the duo of artists. Yes, duo, because behind Antonio’s name, we highlight his partner in crime, Juan Ramos. He was the one who kept the creative forces on track and made sure that their ouvre was seen by the audience and caused the desired impact.

The aforementioned impact is the epicenter of this 304 page tome, edited by the brothers Mauricio and Roger Padilha – the same who created “The Stephen Sprouse Book”, the best-selling art book of 2009. “Us both were very inspired by the work of Antonio and we hope the future generations can witness the magic of his art” says Mauricio.

The illustrations of Antonio, who died in 1987, were made into cover of magazines, fashion editorials, advertising campaigns and even runway shows. His visionary imagination influenced, for instance, designers like Anna Sui, Norma Kamali and his personal friend Karl Lagerfeld. It was in Lopez that the now fashion Kaiser found the necessary strength to step away from under the shadow of the then rival Yves Saint Laurent and shine as a fashion designer in Paris.

What the book does now is not only tell the complete story of Antonio, but it also places us in the center of the work of the duo. Lopez and Ramos lived surrounded by their posse, day and night, and the fame of some of these characters, along with these two artists made a cabaret out of life. Among their friends were Jerry Hall, Jessica Lange and Grace Jones.

During three decades the work of the duo transcended all medias and no longer only existed in paper but in the collective consciousness and daily life of fashionistas worldwide. “I don’t believe there will be another person capable of surpassing his talent as an illustrator and use it to translate the social climate of his time” affirms Roger Padilha.

There will also not be another person who will influence the masculine wardrobe like Antonio. The introduction of colors, fur and shine into men’s wardrobes can be credited, in great part, to this genius of fashion. Always dressed like a peacock, he used to catch the attention of the media and made the color fever one of the reasons why men’s magazines were created. After all, it was necessary to supply for the demand from the battalion of men who were being inspired by the singular visual of the illustrator.

“He still influences the fashion industry. In fact, he influences us too. Antonio lived his work, and to him, there was no separation between professional and personal life. We try to behave the same way”, say the authors, who for over 20 years have run the PR agency MAO, in New York.

It’s in this same city that, until October 6th, the greater audience will come to know the legacy of Antonio Lopez. The exhibition “Antonio’s World” will take place at the hyped The Suzanne Geiss Company, in Soho. The exhibition spans three decades of the illustrator’s work, transformed in an installation as impressive as his work.

Article originally featured in Harper’s Bazaar Brazil, September 2012

Biologic Clock

Who could ever imagine that the same model who was once featured on more than 40 covers of Cosmopolitan magazine would turn into a biologist? I certainly couldn’t, but in this week’s Model Musing I had the opportunity to chat with the stunning Fabiana Tambosi to find out what’s so attractive about genes and cells.

Follow the link for the original post or simply read below.

Model Musing: Fabiana Tambosi

Born and raised in a small town in the countryside of Brazil, Fabiana Tambosi wanted to go to school to study biology. While going to etiquette classes when she was fourteen, Fabiana was spotted by the same scouter who discovered Gisele Bundchen and Alessandra Ambrosio, so the outcome could only be one.
With a modeling career that spans more than 12 years, she has become one of the most sought after beauty models in the industry, signing contracts with every major brand in the world: L’Oreal Paris, Elizabeth Arden, Clarins, Garnier, Revlon, Almay and Clairol, to name a few.
Her Brazilian beauty caught the eye of great photography masters like Mario Testino Raphael Mazucco and Ellen Von Unwerth who have shot her for prestigious jobs such as the Victoria’s Secret catalog and campaigns for Tommy Hilfiger, Guess by Marciano and Alfred Dunhill Fragrance. Tambosi has graced the covers of top selling magazines such as Vogue, Elle and Marie Claire in several different countries, but probably one of her most remarkable achievements is having appeared on more Cosmopolitan magazine covers than any other model.
Today, Fabiana pursues her dream of becoming a biologist and proves through very hard work, that it is possible to hold the highest grades in her class and still maintain a successful and fruitful career as one of the world’s top models.
So modeling wasn’t really in your radar?
Not at all, I wanted to be a biologist, but my sisters kept telling me that it would be a great opportunity to travel the world and get to know other cultures and learn other languages as well as making money and becoming a more responsible and independent person, because I was very over protected at home.
How did your parents react when you told them about the opportunity to model?
They didn’t want me to do it at all, but my older sisters reminded them that if I were to go to school for biology I would have to leave home anyway. They gave me a year to try modeling and I started working from the moment I stepped into Sao Paulo.
What have you learned since you embraced your modeling career?
I’ve learned that I have to be in charge of my own life. You have to pick goals and work very hard towards achieving them without ever losing sight of what you want. I love the person I have become, I had financial freedom from a young age and became very responsible early on. Traveling the world has taught me a lot, but above all, it has taught me to be disciplined  because without discipline things don’t always work out. 
Is there a job you absolutely would not do?
I would not be photographed naked, I would feel weird about my family seeing it.
What advice would you give to aspiring models?
I would tell them they should know what they want, they need to be disciplined and have a lot of patience to achieve it.
What is your favorite image from your modeling career?
The cover of Vogue Greece, shot in Rio de Janeiro in 2001.
Why do you love it?
Because it was shot in Rio, with beautiful natural light and no retouching.
Who took it?
Thanassis Kaloyannis 
What were you thinking when the picture was taken? 
I was thinking I wanted to look gorgeous for the magazine to sell a lot! (laughs)

Fabiana is represented by Elite Model Management in the United States and Ten Model Management in Brazil.

Full Frontal

This week, Model Musing would be giving full frontal if the website wasn’t G-rated. I took the liberty of posting the actual picture which Samuel de Cubber was talking about, here in my blog. He is really proud of it and I didn’t want to keep any of you from seeing why.

Follow the link for the original interview on Look Books or read below.

Model Musing: Samuel de Cubber

Nudity in the modeling industry has always been a big topic for discussion, but for Samuel de Cubber, it is nothing but his proudest moment. His big career break came in the form of a campaign for an Yves Saint Laurent fragrance, in which he was asked to pose wearing nothing but fragrance. 

Samuel knows the ins and outs of the modeling career and believes it’s a blessed one; “If you are a very successful male model you work three to four times a week at the most, so there’s plenty of time to enjoy life!” says de Cubber.
The top male model, who has traveled the world shooting with some of the most beautiful girls in paradisiac locations now takes from all the experience and networking he gathered through the years  and is applying it to another end of the industry.  Today Samuel works as a model scout for one of France’s leading modeling agencies, New Madison. Looking ahead, Samuel contemplates the possibility of working in the health and fitness industry: “I want to open up gyms, promoting boxing and Taekwondo as the best way to lead a healthy and happy life.” – And if he continues to take advantage of his body like he did in his modeling career, we don’t see any reason why his gyms wouldn’t be packed.
Once you were discovered, did you have support from your family?
I didn’t need anyone’ s approval or support, growing up in Marseille you take every opportunity  you get to improve your life.
Was modeling a dream for you or did it just happened by chance?
I had no idea  guys could be models, I got lucky. 
What have you learned from your career that you consider truly valuable?
I learned that I am my own business, therefore I became the greatest sales person ever! (laughs) In that respect I am the product and this not only can be applied to modeling but also to my every day life. I have also  learned a great deal about myself, I  learned to recognize my good and bad sides, and that ability, I owe to the modeling business.
What advice would you give to aspiring models?
Don’t believe everything people say, learn to listen and make your own opinion, be patient and organized  and also, save money when you are lucky enough to make some!
Do you love fashion?
Not really, I wear T-shirts and jeans all the time, nothing else. 
What was your biggest challenge as a model? 
Not much of a challenge there, I always get very upset when I hear models complaining about their job; no one is forcing them to do this and if they had any other job in their life before modeling they would realize how easy they got it compared to anyone else.  
Why do you love that fragrance campaign?
Because I’m naked on it, and there’s nothing better than being naked (laughs)! No, seriously, it profoundly changed my life, I don’t know of many pictures that were able to change someone’s life so much, I had no idea what I was stepping into when I took that job. 
Who took it? Were you excited to work with that photographer?
Solve Sundsbo took it, but I had no idea who he was.
Who else was in the crew?
From what I recall it was Tom Ford , Solve and his assistants, Sam McKnight and Thomas Lenthal on the set. 
What direction did the photographer give you?
Solve is really cool, we spoke a lot the day before the shoot and he showed me pictures of Greek statues and similar references, so once we were on the shoot we just went with the flow and tried a few different things, until Tom, Solve and Thomas where happy with it. 
What was it for?
The fragrance M7 by Yves Saint Laurent.

The Pig and the Muse

This week’s Model Musing involves a pig and a lot of laughter. Have a look at what the model-photographer Zuzana Lettrichova has to say after the jump, or below.

Model Musing: Zuzana Lettrichova
Being tall and skinny can be a torture for many teenagers, as Zuzana Lettrichova puts it, “it wasn’t exactly one of the beauty standards when growing up”; so modeling was definitely not in her radar. When she was approached by a model scout while roaming the streets of her home town in Slovakia she was surprised, but the support of her family played a big role in making the final decision to embrace this opportunity.
As Zuzana took off to explore the world, the only thing she absolutely could not forget to do every day was to call her mother, “to make sure her little daughter was ok and alive” as she reminisces.
Currently, Zuzana spends most of her time between Paris and Manhattan, where she calls home and explores more of her artistic side by taking photographs and making collages, a craft that she has grown to love.
Here we have an opportunity to find what Zuzana’s favorite modeling image is and why.
Why do you love this picture?
Because it’s a photo of a spontaneous and real moment; even now when I look at it, it makes me smile.
Who took it? Were you excited to work with this photographer?
Danish photographer Torkil Gudnason and some of the photos from this shoot ended up in his book “Torkil Gudnason – Selected Photographs 2005-2010”
What was so curious about this shoot in particular?
The presence of a 3 weeks old baby pig! It was a really fun job, it doesn’t happen so often that I shoot with animals, it brings a different vibe to the whole shoot and you never know what will happen because you can’t really control them.
Who else was in the crew?
Muriel VanCauwen for hair and Anne-Caroline Ayotfor make up.
What were you thinking when it was taken?
“Do not  drop him!”;  he was moving a lot and every time he was uncomfortable he started squealing super loud.
What direction did the photographer give you?
He said I should bring lots of energy and expressions, but he also gave me freedom to do my thing. I don’t think too much direction is necessarily a good thing.
What was it for?
French Marie Claire
Who was the stylist?
Laurence Alexandre
What were you wearing?
Victor & Rolf dress
What has modeling taught you about the fashion world that you didn’t know?
That as fun and glamorous as this industry looks like, it’s still a business!
What have you learned from your career that you consider truly valuable?
Being independent, confident and open minded.
What advice would you give to aspiring models?
Always have something else going on,  it is a very up and down kind of business so its important to have other activities and do something valuable with your spare time.
What would be your ultimate modeling job?
A big cosmetic contract or perfume campaign.
Is there a job that you absolutely would not do?
I can’t say what I would never do because it all depends on the situation and circumstances of  the job…
To see Zuzana’s photography and art work check out her blog. Zuzana is represented by Trump Models.

Comb

How many people can say they had their pubic hair combed by Tom Ford? Not many, but the subject of this week’s Model Musing column certainly can. Have a read after the jump or below to find out more about Christopher Camplin.

Model Musing: Christopher Camplin

Christopher Camplin is your regular handsome English bloke, a web developer who lives in London, he is also the perfect tale of the accidental model. Approached by identical twins at an after hours club one night, he was asked whether he would like to be presented as an option for a shoot with Tom Ford. At the time it didn’t seem like a bad idea, and it turns out he was in fact chosen for the part. Being naked in GQ was not what he was thinking when he signed up for this gig, but after a few shots of vodka he was ready to have Tom Ford combing his body hair, and as Norma Desmond would say, he was ready for his close up.
With a modeling career that was kicked off with one of the biggest blessings in a very  exclusive industry, Christopher’s path was set. A collection of selective and high end bookings have followed since then, always in parallel with his work as a web developer, as well as stints as a DJ here and there. Here he picks his favorite picture as a model and tells us a little bit more about his thoughts on the industry.
Do you think modeling is perceived by society in a different way for men than it is for women?
Not specifically, I don’t think society’s perception of female and male models is particularly different, models often seem to be regarded as unintelligent regardless of their sex.
Was modeling ever a dream of yours?
It was never something I’d really considered, I was scouted purely by chance and it gradually snow balled from there. I never expected to get more work after each job in the beginning. I still wonder now!
What were your most remarkable experiences as a model?
I would have to say Tom Ford combing my pubic hair or walking down on an elevated travelator for Walter Van Beirendonck’s “Dream The World Awake” video for a retrospective of his work.
So why is this image your favorite?
This was a recent shoot I did , for Lee Paton’s latest collection. I mostly love it because I got to work with the Huskies, they were beautiful and really well behaved.
Who took it?
The photographer was Lee Roberts, always a pleasure to work with – a lovely man.
What were you thinking when this picture was being taken?
“I want to own some Huskies.”
Was there a theme for the shoot?
The theme of the collection was an arctic exhibition.
Is there any advice you would like to share with aspiring models?
I didn’t really make any effort to become a model so I can’t advise on that, but… learn to be comfortable in your own skin and accept yourself is the advice I would give.
Christopher is represented by Models 1.

In The Raw

When news broke that Supermodel Carol Alt was about to launch another of her raw dieting books, “Easy Sexy Raw” I remember thinking – “oh no,  here we go, yet another diet book from a celebrity!”. I also remember thinking that Carol looked pretty fabulous  in our last encounter a couple of weeks prior to that. I was left curious by the premise of her book and the fact that this was one of many in a line of best selling books about the same subject: living a lifestyle that incorporates raw foods to improve the quality of life.

It’s only natural to pay attention when you hear a certain book is a best-seller, but after three hits in a series, you must look closely. And so I did. Carol Alt’s books are not simply diets, like the Atkins or the South Beach, they truly are a way of living that has worked for hundreds of thousands around the globe and has found in Alt their biggest supporter and spokesperson. Adept of this intriguing principle of only eating raw foods for nearly twenty years, Carol’s excitement when talking about her books and her health is not for nothing. After being sent back home by a director in the midst of shooting her TV special “Carol Alt & Friends” at the age of 34, because her body wasn’t in swimsuit condition, this Sports Illustrated supermodel, known internationally for her beauty and sculptural body was shocked. How could the star of the show have let go of herself like that?


Book-Cover-827x1024-300x371.jpgBook-Cover-827x1024-300x371.jpg

At that moment Carol realized that there was something horribly wrong. How was it possible that in less than ten years her body and health had deteriorated so dramatically? How was it possible that a 34 year old woman could be constantly catching colds, having headaches, stomachaches and having the most painful sinus infections? This was her opportunity to turn the tables. Carol prayed as hard as she could for enlightenment, and so it came. When talking to a friend about the recent events, Carol was given the suggestion to look for this doctor that had helped one of their other friends to treat cancer. The results came right at the first day of her new lifestyle, and from that moment on, Carol saw the need to be more vocal about it and tell the world the wonders that such a simple change had brought upon her.

The idea for the raw books were picked up by Random House “in a snap of the fingers”, like Carol likes to say, and the rest is best-selling history. The success of the books led Carol to try and brake new boundaries. After extensive research to find beauty products that did not have any chemicals in their composition, wasn’t she surprised to find that such products did not exist? And so years of research and development started with her team, to come up with the first ever beauty line that is also raw and 100% natural: “Raw Essentials by Carol Alt”.

To prove her point, the model/actress explains that “the company that did before and after tests said it is the best before and after results they have ever seen, natural, organic or otherwise. You see, we do get great results without any chemicals!”. And not only the results are phenomenal, but so is the price. “we wanted to reach out to a lot of people with a product of very high quality and very low cost. Nobody else does that, I could sell these products for 80 bucks each, but I wanted it to be accessible to everyone, not just the elite. I hardly make any profit on this, and part of it also goes into cancer research. I am healthy on my skin and on my body and I really wanted to share that with as many people as possible.”.

Ms. Alt proves being deserving of her supermodel title as she continues to work as hard and as much as she did when she first got it in the early eighties. The creation of this title however is packed with controversy. Eileen Ford, then owner of Ford Models claimed she used to call her models supermodels around the office. Janice Dickinson, a fellow supermodel, claims to have created the title to describe herself. Yet, most of the press claims that Carol Alt was the first supermodel, and she has an idea of why. 

“It was only a working title. The agency (Elite Models) started using it after I had a meeting with John (Casablancas, then owner of Elite) to explain that it was impossible to work when we were getting several calls per day from our bookers in the studio. I was really afraid the clients might get irritated and not book me again. This was a time when I was working up to three jobs a day, seven days a week without ever taking a break, it was intense! Clients had to book us with six months in advance! John then decided to create a Super Elite Division in which each of these super requested girls would have its own booker and would only get calls from that one person, keeping things more organized. This division had much bigger girls than me, like Kim Alexis or Kelly Emberg, but I suppose that since I was the first one in, the press picked up on it.”

Whether she was the first supermodel or not doesn’t seem to bother her at all, Carol is very humble about her career and speaks of her accomplishments with profound passion. Her latest given title is “legend”, bestowed upon her by her current agency, Trump Models, In New York. The newly created Legends Division, represents working models that have become huge and unforgettable, like Carmen Dell’Orefice, with a career that goes way beyond the mark of the sixty years; or Beverly Johnson, a name that will forever be remembered as the first woman of color in the cover of Vogue.

Carol Alt is a legend not only because she allegedly was the first supermodel, but because her career in the film, music, TV and literary industries have all been successful and filled with accolades. Her recognition as an actress in the United States, her home country, may not be as huge as her recognition in Europe, but the pile of awards that fill Carol’s shelves in her New York home will show you just how important she is to that world. Carol’s acting career is just as large as her modeling, her first job was on Broadway in Bob Fosse’s “Sweet Charity”, job that made her realize just how much she needed to learn the craft of acting. This was a time in which models did not become actresses and actresses did not work in TV commercials or advertising jobs, so to make a transition of that sort would require a lot of training and talent. Carol hired a coach and worked hard from the very first day. Her first movie, “Via Montenapoleone” was such a huge hit in Europe that it was later turned into a tv series. Since then Carol has worked in more than 50 films and is ready for the release of her latest project, with none other than Woody Allen. His new feature entitled “To Rome with Love”, due in the spring of 2012 worldwide takes the audience back to the good old Allen style, from films like “Manhattan” or “Everyone Says I Love You”.

Carol had hoped for a bigger and more established acting career in the United States, but by the time she was already a big star in Europe the 90’s had arrived, and with that a whole new team of supermodels, girls that had extensive amount of fame and were being offered parts in movies without even wanting to pursue a career in acting. Needless to say, these models were unprepared to deliver serious performances and by the time Carol returned to her country and hit Hollywood, the film community was fed up with models who wanted to be in movies. Carol’s talent and stardom however wasn’t diminished, she was still a supermodel.

Not one to sit on her hands, she took advantage of her position and went on to do work with several charitable organizations and more recently found the cause that lives in the core of her heart: TAMFI, the Tony Alt Memorial Foundation. “My brother passed away in 2005, and nobody knows why, he just dropped to the floor and died. His workers loved him, and that is such a testament to who my brother was, that they didn’t want his spirit to die. They started this foundation to raise money for children’s charities. Everyone in that foundation works for free, they have day jobs, so they donate their time to make sure the right organizations are getting the funds they need.” – explains the entrepreneur.

And then there is also a jewelry line launched in partnership with Sears. Yes, if this woman doesn’t deserve to be called legendary, than I have no idea who else should. The butterfly designed by Carol, is meant to symbolize transformation, because she claims to have been transformed since she started her raw living. With a green gem in the back, Carol hopes she will be able to bring healing energies to whoever purchases the items, which of course also reverts profits to charity.

And does this supermodel turned legend ever get tired? “Well, you know, sometimes I do. I do, but I try to do things that I am passionate about, I keep going because I enjoy what I am doing and from the moment I stop enjoying it I will stop it all. But you know what? I do my best, I am only trying to do my little bit, and for me it is all about health and I am trying to bring health to people.” Could the message be any clearer? I don’t think so.


——————-

Article originally published in The Peninsula

Legendary Johnson

Beverly Johnson is not a fearful woman, she knows what she wants out of life, and she takes it. From a very young age she decided she needed to help in her family’s income and so she went on to become a model. In her early career, Beverly was given the honor of having her face stamped in the cover of Vogue, the most prestigious magazine in the world. That alone would be an accomplishment for any model, but the year was 1974 and Ms. Johnson was the first woman of color to ever be featured in the cover of Vogue.

From that moment on, Beverly Johnson would never again be just a model, she had become legendary. A part of the newly formed division entitled Legends, at New York’s Trump Models, her placement there could not be more suited. At a time in which everyone is a supermodel, to be recognized as a legend is quite distinguishing, even more so, because Ms. Johnson is from an era in which the term “Supermodel” wasn’t even invented.

Legendary Beverly Johnson remains. In 2012 she has launched a reality TV show in Oprah Winfrey’s network, OWN, and the rise to success of her newborn endeavor in the world of cosmetics in a partnership with Target. The first ever “Modelpreneur” continues to amaze us.

After more than 40 years actively working in the entertainment industry, Beverly’s career has produced more than 500 magazine covers, advertising campaigns, beauty contracts, runway shows, two books, movies, tv shows and an extensive list of charity work. 

Ms. Johnson’s most important accomplishment however was not in front of any sort of cameras, but in the privacy of her home: her daughter Anansa, with whom she now shares a home alongside her granddaughter and son in law. Beverly’s Full House is not just the title of her television series, but a description of what her life has become; a life full of great accomplishments and happiness. Here Beverly tells us a little more about her full life. 


 

What drove you to doing this docu-series on OWN?

It was the perfect opportunity to have my daughter, who I will always love, around me, and my new son in law, who is the son who I always wanted, and also my first grand child. Also, I knew that my daughter would never consent to going into therapy or any of the other things I had been involved with all these years, and she loves reality shows, she got me into reality tv, so she was thrilled with the whole idea, and that’s why I did that pitch to Oprah, it was a great way to get closer to my daughter and work in our relationship.

 

I can’t imagine how it is to have cameras all around your life and your house constantly; are there ever moments when it becomes too much to deal with and too difficult? Is it a big camera crew?

Well, of course it took some adjusting at first because I didn’t really know how intense it was and I didn’t realize it was going to be 20 to 25 people in my home every day. I don’t know what I was thinking. But also because it is a constructive reality tv show, it wasn’t about shooting indiscriminately, and the purpose of the show was to build a stronger bond with my daughter and to document me building my company. After a while, since we had a purpose in mind, it was much easier to manage, because we knew why we were doing it.

 

So there is definitely a way to manage the crew?

No, there is no coordination, they are there, from sun up to sun down, and sometimes even  longer than that, so there is no way to coordinate anything. We are in a reality tv show, so therefore we had life coaches come in so we could carry on all our normal activities because we are taking our cameras with us when we are going to fashion shoots and everything else in our daily lives.

 

So, now you are working on this docu-series and your company, but looking back in your career you have been in film, now you are in tv, you’ve done runway, you’ve done advertising, all sorts of things. What are the mediums that you worked with throughout your career that excite you the most? What makes your heart beat faster?

Today the digital media is something that really excites me, I think it’s a frontier that is very exciting, I love the podcasts, the streaming web, I read several blogs, I tweet via @BeverlyJohnson1, I facebook, it’s really about sharing your feelings with people and there is a connection there, I really believe that the internet has really made us able to connect with each other like we never have before.

 

And because you were the first african american woman in the cover of Vogue, I believe people look up to you, there is this aura around you, you seem to be a huge role model to women of color in particular. Do you think there is a message that  comes throughout your career? Did you ever aim to pass on this message that you can do whatever you want and succeed?

I really believe that I am living my life and living my dreams, and if I can inspire and be a role model to other people it’s great, but I am basically just living my life as an open book. In the 70’s and 80’s I was just telling people what was going on in my life and career, and now I get to share it in television, in reality television. I am just doing what I do.

 

You are of course a fashion and a beauty icon and you have transformed that career into very smart business decisions. When you were at the top of your modeling career years ago, did you already have the idea of working towards these projects or did they come to you little by little more recently?

They were always there, and I got into the business because I wanted to help out my family financially and I was able to do that. I was also able to open up a whole world of fashion and beauty and the arts, which I have grown to love, and also have the pleasure of, in some ways, become an expert just from being in it for so long. I think that it’s something that I wanted to share with other people, my knowledge, my experience and my career, these are things I always wanted to share with everyone.

 

Can you point out a moment in your career in which you look back and you say “this is it, now I have everything I could have asked for and I am happy!”?

Well, I would say, career wise, I knew that being the first woman of color in the cover of Vogue was something that nobody would ever be able to take away from me because I was the first and Vogue was and still is such an important media, not only in fashion but in the culture of America. So I always said that if I never get to do anything else, I have achieved a huge accomplishment! And that was in the beginning of my career, so it was all uphill from there.

 

How did it make you feel; were you blown away? Because when you went to shoot the editorial, did you know it was going to be a cover?

No, I didn’t know it was going to be a cover, in those days you never knew you were shooting a cover, you never knew you would be the cover until you saw yourself in the stand. But I knew it was a big deal, it still is a big deal to be in the cover of Vogue, but I didn’t know what what it meant to be the first woman of color in that cover, and what it meant for people of color around the world. I wasn’t prepared for that kind of responsibility to be thrust upon me at such a young age, but it gave me a purpose and kind of a road map of where I should go and how I should honor that achievement.

 

And lastly, I want to talk about charity, because I know you have done extensive work with Aids organizations and many others, how important is it for you to work with charity?

I did a lot of work with Aids and Amfar in the 80’s, we did that advertising shoot by Annie Leibovitz with Christie Brinkley and all those girls that were coming out and really speaking about Aids when it was still tabu, so I still am affiliated with various Aids organizations and always will be. That’s when you really get to step out of yourself and lend your celebrity to others. I am the spokesperson for global down syndrome, my niece has down syndrome and it is just such a great organization. They do a fashion show every year and if you could just look at their faces when they are walking down the runway and how they perform, there is so much about the condition and knowing that we can help these kids to reach their potential, so that’s something I am very involved with. I am also involved with a center out here in the desert that works with abused children, and we also put a fashion show together for them, and just to see these girls self esteem move up is something that makes it all worth while.

 

So, should we expect a second season for “Beverly’s Full House”?

Oh, I don’t know yet, it’s too early to tell. I do know it is the second biggest hit in the network and we have had a great feedback on it but we are very hopeful and happy about it.

———————

Article originally published in The Peninsula – volume 9, Issue 2 / June 2012

Walk the Walk

Here is a link to an interview with runway coach Connie Fleming on lookbooks.com !

🙂

Walk the Walk: An interview with runway coach Connie Fleming

As New York Fashion Week approaches, hundreds of new faces roam through the streets of Manhattan, girls fighting for their own space under the spotlights of the runways; for many, one booking is the golden opportunity and key to a long and successful career, so getting the job isn’t enough, the performance is all that matters. But how do these girls prepare for the dreaded castings? And ultimately, how do they know what to do when they are asked to walk the walk?
Connie Fleming is the answer to many of those young faces, who sometimes have learned “how to walk”  in their home countries or even at home, watching videos on YouTube, and need to perfect the techniques and many many times need to relearn from scratch.
Connie was catapulted into the fashion world in the 80’s in the midst of the downtown fashion and performance art scene. She caught the attention of designers like Patricia Field and Andre Walker who booked her to model their collections and shortly after she fell into graces with the likes Thierry Mugler and Vivienne Westwood. Connie’s career as a model was established and photographers like Steven Klein and Steven Meisel confirmed she was a must-book.
Having dabbled a little bit in the art scene and in production and casting for her long time friend Patricia Field, Connie gained enough experience and know how to then move on to a new realm and explore a career as a runway coach. 
 
With names like Arlenis Sosa, Hanne Gabby Odiele, Erin Heatherton and Brooklyn Decker on her resume, Connie has a brilliant array of experience to share with the young girls:  
What do you like about teaching these young girls to walk the runways?
Helping them to build their confidence and watching them grow and adapt to the creative process.
One would think that all they have to do is put on their outfit, a good face and walk; but if there is the need for a runway coach I am assuming there is a lot more to it?
Yes there’s attitude, feeling, pace, connecting with the eyes. Being in the moment and part of the overall statement.
What is the most important thing for these girls to learn?
To be aware of the clients direction and style, the importance of creating a line or shape, and again being comfortable in their bodies.
Do the model’s agents give you directions of something that they are looking for or interfere with your work in any way?
It’s different for each girl and what she needs at the time. It might be a certain style for a specific show or to help ease them out of their shell.  I really haven’t experienced an interfering vibe and ultimately the agent knows the model best.  More importantly they get feedback from casting directors and clients so it’s more like everyone coming together to make the process work.
Is there anything that frustrates you as a runway coach?
Time, when there isn’t enough of it to prepare a girl fully for show week.
Are you proud to see the girls you coached glowing in campaigns, editorials and fashion shows?
Naturally. It’s great to see them utilize techniques we’ve practiced in class.
Do you still have a relationship with them?
We run into each other from time to time but they’re off making fashion and i couldn’t be happier for them.
What is the most important advice you would give to the young girls who aspire to become models?
Familiarize yourself with the business,  the designers, the labels, the websites  and magazines. And realize it’s a tough business that can be quite harsh; it requires a thick skin to not take it all too personally.  
What do you still aim to achieve in this industry?
There are many avenues of the business that i would like to pursue.  I ‘m working on several projects such as my illustrations which i’ve been working on for years and plan to exhibit soon.

Splashing Back

Here is a little piece I wrote for Modelina.com about Lisa Cant’s return into the fashion world!
😉

Lisa Cant Splashes Back into the Fashion Scene

Dolce & Gabbana favorite Lisa Cant recently took some time off from the fashion world to attend Columbia University, but the blue eyed beauty is back and looking better than ever! Along with wrapping up her final semester at Columbia this year, Lisa just shot an editorial for Vogue US with Steven Klein, and is planning to walk the runways in the upcoming Fashion Weeks.  Trump Models included Lisa in their show package, which they send out to casting directors and designers, and having walked some of the top runways in the past – including Chanel and Marc Jacobs – we have a feeling she’ll be one of the most booked models this season.

Letters to Haiti


LetterstoHaitievite.jpgLetterstoHaitievite.jpg

Culture: Letters to Haiti

In an evening of relentless rain, New York City’s most die hard charity fans  showed up for Haiti. The event led by supermodel 

Coco Rocha

 entitled “Letters to Haiti” came to show that when you mix, fashion, art and humanitarian causes you can’t go wrong. In it’s third fund raiser, the non profit organization 

Lakay Pam

, founded by Cedrick Roche and his wife,

Carolina Bittencourt-Roche 

– moved locations, leaving the grungy Opera Gallery in Chelsea and Mr. Brainwash’s colorful installations behind to inhabit a more minimalist spot.

The gallery at Milk Studios included works by Victoria’s Secret model Behati Prinsloo, Greg Kadel, Enrique Badulescu and Ben Watts, among others; all up for auction to help raise money for the charity that supports orphanages and schools in Port Au Prince

 But the main event of the evening was 

James Conran

‘s documentary screening which also gave name to the event – “Letters to Haiti” – in which Mr. Conran depicts  the efforts of Coco and Behati along with a couple of friends in bringing letters and donations from around the world to the children of Haiti. As some of you may know, James Conran is Coco Rocha’s husband, a talented designer and now also a filmmaker.

Coco’s efforts didn’t go unnoticed and she managed to bring out her buddies Karlie Kloss and Hillary Rhoda as well as long time friend Mr. Zac Posen who made sure Rocha had a fresh-off the runway look to wear for the evening. Before the film started. We heard the warm laughter of Lauren Santo-Domingo trading impressions of Ms. Prinsloo’s pictures with make up artist Joe Hubrich and Carolina Bittencourt-Roche discussing blogging with her friend Luciana Curtis.

After the screening of the documentary was finished, Coco reminded everyone that the silent auction was about to begin, but – and said, “If you can’t bid or donate, then maybe you can spread the word and help us raise awareness, Haiti still needs you”.

The message was received, and it seemed that the guests were in pretty good holiday spirits as most of the photographs were sold with no fuss; well, except for one very colorful photography by Ben Watts; generating a bidding war that culminated with the designer Ana Lerario-Geller having to outbid an unknown gentleman by a hundred dollars in the last minute before the bidding closed. Merry Christmas Robert Geller!

All in all it was a fun night out on a very boring rainy New York evening where the holiday spirit could be felt in full force.

Gabriel Ruas Santos-Rocha, to see mroe of his writing click 

here

. 

All photos courtesy of  Josh Wong Photography

Naomi Preizler

HERE is a link to something I wrote on one of my favorite new models for LookBooks.com – have a read! 🙂

Agent Provocateur: Elite’s Gabriel Rocha on Naomi Preizler

Naomi Preizler (Elite) is much more than just a pretty face and a great runway girl. She is a true artist who paints and draws likes nobody’s business, and has a great understanding of art and fashion, which to me is an extremely important factor in a model’s career.

Unquestionably a rising talent in our industry, just the other week Naomi shot single-girl editorials for Vogue Russia and L’Officiel in different parts of the world. Her previous bookings include  a cover of Vogue Italia Gioiello; editorials for V Spain, V, Interview, Muse, Dazed & Confused, Wonderland, and Zoo; and features in i-D and Metal.

Naomi was also featured on the cover of the first issue of Harper’s Bazaar Argentina, her native country, where she is also currently working on a line of t-shirts with prints from her paintings.

Naomi has walked the runways of Givenchy, Chanel, Sonia Rykiel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Richard Chai, Rag & Bone, Missoni, Vivienne Westwood, House of Holland, among many others; and has been shot by photographers like Mario Sorrenti,Sharif Hamza and Vicky Trombetta (2DM).

For more on Naomi and Gabriel: Naomi’s Twitter | Gabriel’s Twitter — Blog

Wonder Woman

Top model Alessandra Ambrosio splits her time between motherhood and a modeling career. On her time off, she takes care of her body with outdoor workouts. by Gabriel Ruas

Even though she has three homes – in Los Angeles, New York and Florianopolis – Alessandra Ambrosio spends most of her time at location shoots and photography studios. The 5’9 top model has perfect curves and is one of the most important models in the world. Alessandra has been appointed several times by renowned news outlets as the sexiest or more desired woman in the planet. All that fame didn’t happen overnight.

When she started modeling, Alessandra heard repeatedly that she wasn’t tall enough for the runway but, determined, she worked hard until she stepped on the catwalk of heavy weights like Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior, Kenzo and Vivienne Westwood. Currently, she is one of the ‘Angels‘ under contract with the brand Victoria’s Secret, holding the longest running contract and one of the fattest pay checks of the industry, a fact evidenced by Forbes Magazine.

Known for her great personality, the girl from Erechim, Brazil is not only the face of hyped brands. She is currently developing a bikini line, stars in TV commercials and still finds time to dedicate to philanthropy. Not only that: she completely changed her routine in order to adjust to the biggest and more audacious life project, her daughter Anja. Since the birth of the little girl Ale, as she’s known by close friends, prioritizes jobs with her favorite clients in order to make more time for her family.

Victoria’s Secret, Next UK and Giorgio Armani are some of the lucky brands for which the top model will always make time for. As she likes to put it, they’re friends, almost part of the family. So much so that during those bookings she has freedom to control the music selection – Led Zeppelin, Faith No More, INXS, Pearl Jam and Nirvana are always among her choices – and during the break, between a click and another, she ties in a lively chat with the crew.

This lightness, Alessandra cultivates and cares for with special attention. She knows that the career she chose is tough and it’s necessary to believe in herself to accomplish and manage her success. That’s why, whenever she has the chance to chat with new faces, she doesn’t hesitate in sharing her recipe: Patience and always remaining professional.

Passionate about sports, Alessandra Ambrosio maintains her curvy body through practicing surfing, windsurf, running and playing volleyball. Last year, three months after giving birth to Anja, she walked down the Victoria’s Secret catwalk exhibiting perfect shape, leaving the fashion world in astonishment. What’s her secret for getting back in shape so quickly? The new routine with the baby is responsible for a great portion of these results, but the model confesses that combining healthy eating habits and workouts was the main factor that brought her perfect body back.

From here on, Alessandra intends to live every moment to its fullest. The focal point remains her family and work and, with the certainty that only a few successful people have, she is not afraid of what the future holds. Her modeling career is what fascinates her and what she desires to do for many more years to come. Even though she has considered adding acting to her resume, she gave up when she realized that she would be type-cast in that industry. After all, an ‘Angel’ knows perfectly well the mechanisms which maintain her life in motion and can manage the explosive combination of fame + power + beauty with tranquility. She is not someone who walks within pre-determined standards; she prefers to create her own paths.

Article originally featured as a cover story on L’Officiel Brazil # 33 July 2009